The boa constrictor is a large non-venomous snake native to Central and South America. Of all the subspecies, the most well known is the red tailed boa constrictor (boa constrictor constrictor). The common name refers to a deep red/brown coloration on the saddles on the tail and anterior portion of the back.
Size: The red tailed boa constrictor is a large snake, with adults able to reach lengths in excess of 12 feet, although 9 - 10 foot is more common. Female boa constrictors, as with most snakes, tend to be larger and more muscular than the males.
Housing: Since the adult boa is quite large, you need to provide a large enclosure. Always keep in mind that a boa is a very powerful snake and that it can either break the enclosure, if it's not properly made for snakes, or escape it easily if openings are not secured. A single adult specimen will require a floor area of 72" by 36" by 36". As a largely terrestrial snake, height of the enclosure is not so important, although sturdy branches should be provided to make use of what height you have, since some specimens will climb, especially when young.
Substrate: One of the biggest secrets related to red tailed snakes is the substrate. The most common one is the paper towels or newspaper, since they are easily replaceable and hygienic. You will also be able to monitor the conditions in the cage this way; once your pet is established and you don't need to make any more changes, then you can buy one of the commercial substrates, which are specifically made for snake tanks. These are usually made of cypress and fir bark. There are some elements that should be avoided, such as pine and cedar, because they can harbour parasites, and have toxins present which in an enclosed space can be hazardous to your snake's health. Many boa constrictor owners use Astroturf as a more natural looking alternative to paper towels. In any case you should use something that is both easy to clean and safe.
Habitat: The red tailed boas are reclusive need places to hide. Hides can be offered in the form of artificial plastic caves, upturned bowls, or even cardboard boxes. Using rocks is also a good idea, as long as they don't have any sharp edges and are securely fastened so they cannot be dislodged and fall onto your boa.
Heat and Light: While no special lighting is required, a proper temperature gradient must be provided. A thermostatically controlled heat source, such as a ceramic bulb heater, should be set up to provide a temperature range from around 29 - 33 C at the warm end, to 27 - 29 C at the cooler end. A drop of a couple of degrees at night is also a good idea.
Food and Water: Most boas will readily accept defrosted rodents. A single prey item, no larger than the snake's head, should be offered fortnightly for adults, and weekly for neonates. A large bowl of fresh water must always be provided.
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